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Author Topic: Foam Core Board  (Read 2518 times)
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jteoaiwei
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2009, 01:22:34 pm »

Hi! I hope this is in time! lol

I've recently seen a styrofoam board cutter, and it's not like a razor blade at all. It's more like a bow, with a fishing line/string between the two ends. so you cut it with the fishing line/string. I think it's a fishing line/string at least, can't really remember. I saw mine at Daiso, which is a Japanese chain store in Singapore. You might be able to find something like this at a hardware store in ur place? lol Hope that helps!
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wendysminiatures
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« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2008, 08:26:36 am »

Laure, an often recommended approach to cutting foamcore is to use new blades, which you are doing, and then use three passes for each cut.  The first goes through the top paper, the second does the foam interior, and then the third completes through the bottom paper.  You are very unlikely to get good results trying to do it all in one go.

Hope this helps,

Wendy S.
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Wendy S.
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kulrike
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« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2008, 04:48:11 am »

Cuts
Stamping machines cuts FOAM X?EW up to 5 mm of thickness l?t itself problem-free with sturdy universal work measurers (Cuttermessern) cut. Several easy cuts result in a better result than an individual, kr?iger cut. The metal yardstick against slipping secure. FOAM X?EW can be cut also with disk tailoring so mentioned. An advantage of these machines is their dust and non-cutting function. With the use of guillotine shears tossed and on one side rounded off lips are inevitable

Schneiden
FOAM-XÒNEW bis 5 mm Dicke lässt sich problemlos mit stabilen Universalarbeitsmessern (Cuttermessern)
schneiden.
• Mehrere leichte Schnitte ergeben ein besseres Resultat als ein einzelner, kräftiger Schnitt. Den
Metallmassstab gegen Verrutschen sichern.
• FOAM-XÒNEW kann auch mit so genannten Plattenschneidern geschnitten werden. Ein Vorteil
dieser Maschinen ist deren staub- und spanlose Arbeitsweise.
• Beim Einsatz von Schlagscheren sind gestauchte und einseitig abgerundete Schnittkanten
unvermeidlich

this is what I've found
www. joergkueper.de/pdfs/foamx_new_verarbeitungshinweise.pdf

may be the translation will help you (it's an translating program - more fun than help)
« Last Edit: October 22, 2009, 04:04:53 am by *marlene* » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2008, 04:25:38 am »

Laure, I hope you won't mind if I add one more question concerning foam board.
What's the best way to paint it. I've heard that you shouldn't use water paints but it's OK if you use acrylics. I did it and the walls of my roombox got deformed. So... what do you do to prevent it?
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laure
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« on: February 19, 2008, 01:41:55 am »

Hello all,

Hope this is the right place to post, but I was wondering if anyone has helpful tips on working with foam board?
Primarily,  I have problems cutting the thing. I start out with a new razer blade but I always end up with very
ragged edges and uneven cuts. Is there a particular trick to it? Or is that how it's supposed to end up?

And since I'm about to give up on using foam board, I think a good alternative would be mat board. Does anyone
know where I can get mat board? The closest I have to an art store in my area is Michaels, but all they sell are
the precut framed mat boards.

Any helpful advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Grin

laure
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